There are some that say this is a "Biblical" block and judging by the name I can see the connection. There is a reference in Carrie Hall's block book and there are a few variations with the same name. I love the history of quilting and especially quilt blocks and their names.
No matter what you call it, this will be a nice addition to our BOM quilt!
You may have noticed that the blocks are getting more involved as we go - this is part of my plan. I call it skill building and with each block you expand your skills or reinforce what you already know how to do. Give them a try and if you need help, post a comment at the end of the blog post.
A) 2 7/8" x 2 7/8" square
Cut 1 square of tan print (scraps)
Cut 4 squares of gold print (background)
B) 3 5/8" x 3 5/8" square
Cut 2 squares of gold print (background) and then cut on the diagonal twice.
Cut 2 squares of red print (scraps) and then cut on the diagonal twice.
You will end up with 8 triangles each of scraps and background.
I cut the large triangles and the small triangles from different red prints - you can make them the same or more scrappy as I did. That is one of the things I love about quilting - we get to do what we like!
C) 2 7/8" x 5 3/8" rectangle
Cut 4 rectangles of gold print (background)
D) 5 5/8" x 5 5/8" square
Cut 2 squares red (scraps) and then cut once on the diagonal to yield 4 triangles.
Once I have the pieces cut out I like to lay them all out so I can make sure I have what I need and like the fabric and placement. Every once in a while I will make a change in the fabric choices at this point - no problem, I have lots of fabric! ☺
I start with the triangles. This one is a bit tricky to keep organized the correct way as it is easy to sew on the wrong side and end up with the color placement messed up. Piece all of the triangle units at this point. They should look like the top unit in the photo. (Keep in mind that there is a left version and and a right version.)
After I sew them together and press to the dark. I then place them back in position and then add that unit to the square as shown. Pay attention to the color orientation and position. Again it is easy to sew the triangle unit to the wrong side.
Press to the dark. After I have the square added I then add the remaining triangle unit. You will be making 4 of these units.
Some tips on construction of the triangle units:
When adding the triangle unit to the squares make sure that the edges of the triangle unit are aligned to two sides of the square. It is easy to not align them correctly and it will create problems going forward. I make sure that the edges are perfect and then I pin! Sew and press - don't skip the pressing part!
The same steps are used to add the other triangle unit to the opposite side of the square. Be sure to align both edges of the triangle unit with both edges of the square. Pin and sew a scant 1/4" seam. Press to the dark.
This is what your triangle units will look like from the wrong side. Notice you can see the intersections on the perimeter of the unit along two edges.
This is important and will ensure that you don't cut your points off in the next step. There are some instances where construction trumps this - you cannot see the intersecting seam along the bottom of the triangle. (see pic below) but I thought it was more important to be able to see the two outer seams versus the one on the bottom. That way I only risk cutting off one point versus two ☺
If I would have pressed to the light you would see the intersecting seam along the bottom but then the two on the other edges of the triangle would have been hidden. I always go for the most visible option and in this case it came from pressing to the dark.
Once again I layout all the units and double check my orientation. At this point you can sew two rectangles to the center square.
Lay the triangle unit on top of the large triangles and sew a scant 1/4" seam. Take care to "feel" where the seam intersection is along that edge and do your best not to sew the point off. ☺ You can also peek as you come to that part in the seam to make sure you are on the seam side as opposed to the point side as you sew. If you are not clear about this there are plenty of pics in the early block posts about that intersection and how to sew so you don't cut the points off.
Once I have my triangle units made into squares I press to the red - it makes a cleaner feeling block with less bulk and while it breaks the rule of "press to the dark" it makes for better construction and a flatter block. Sometimes construction trumps the rule.
Sew a rectangle to two of the pieced triangle/squares as shown. Press to the dark. Repeat.
Your center rectangle/square unit is pressed to the light so the seams can nest nicely when you put them together. Again construction trumps the rule.
For the last two seams you want to pin taking care to align the center square with the rectangles so they match perfectly. Pressing correctly helps with this. I always pin from the center out since the center alignment is the most important. Press the final two seams and call this baby done!!!
You may have noticed that the rectangles are a bit longer than the block. The cutting measurements in the pattern called for a 5 5/16 long rectangle - since none of my rulers have that fine of a measurement I opted to upsize a bit and go with 5 3/8" knowing that was easier to cut out the pieces using that measurement. I figured since the rectangles ended up along the perimeter I could always trim after the block was made.
If you are not sure about any of the steps in construction just post a comment below and I will do what I can to help you.
This block is made up completely of triangles but with the no waste method of making flying geese units, it goes together pretty easily.
Always makes me think of windmills and I wonder if that is how it got it's name...
Squares are all you need to make this block. I will show you a super fun and easy way to make flying geese units.
A) 3 7/8" x 3 7/8" square
Cut 8 squares of gold (background)
Draw a line from corner to corner on each of the A squares on the diagonal.
B) 7 1/4" x 7 1/4" square
Cut 1 square red print (scraps)
Cut 1 square of green print (scraps)
Using the no waste method of making flying geese lay two squares of background on one square of scrap fabric. The line you drew on the background fabric should intersect where the squares overlap. Pin.
Sew a 1/4" seam on both sides of the drawn line. Pay attention the the drawn line and sew as accurately as you can, if you are off just a bit your geese will not turn out the correct size. After sewing it is a good idea to double check your seam and make adjustments or re-sew if necessary.
Cut along the drawn line. Press the small triangles (may or may not be the dark) away from the larger triangle.
Lay another background square on top of the unit you just completed.
Get a little extra help holding it down if you need it. Spencer is always up to the task. Pin in place.
Take to sewing machine and while carefully balancing 12# of cat on your lap sew on both sides of the drawn line as you did above. Place cat on desk and get up and check to be certain your seam measures exactly 1/4".
Cut on drawn line. Press away from the large triangle (it may or may not be to the dark).
You will end up with 4 flying geese units and you never had to cut a triangle! ☺
You will repeat the process with the other large square and remaining background squares. Trim the ears before the next step.
I like to layout all the units that make up the block before I sew them together. This is a good time to make any adjustments for directional fabrics. You can see that both of my fabrics are directional. I played around with the layout until I got them going the same way.
Sew two flying geese units together following the layout above. You will make 4 two pair units.
Pay close attention to the intersection at the top of the big triangle....don't cut that point off!
After pressing each unit I then lay them out again making sure I have them going the way I want them to.
Sew together in pairs again.
Press the seam in opposite directions so when you put the final seam in they nest nicely together.
Pin the two halves together making sure to align the center exactly. Sew, taking care with the intersections of the triangles.
Give the block a good press and pat yourself on the back. ☺