Stash Buster BOM Block #16

This installment of the BOM is not technically a block but rather the sashing that goes in between all the blocks.  

 

There are still blocks/components to come so you won't be able to put the quilt together until after the February posts ☺

 

Two piece sashing unit - make 48.


 

Things to consider.  When choosing fabric for this step please consider that it meets up in the intersections with the little 4 patch units you made a few months ago.  Choose your fabric so the combo is pleasing.  Since my blocks all have a solid black background I decided to go with two dark prints that have some contrast due to the scale of the print.  They also pair nicely with my 4 patches.







Super simple construction.

You need to cut 2" strips WOF (width of fabric) from each of your two sashing fabrics.  You need 16 of each.

Take care when cutting so that a vertical line on the ruler stays on the fold of the fabric as you cut.  

Doing this will keep you from cutting a strip that ends up having a V in it.  












Sometimes as you cut multiple strips it is necessary to re-square and cut the bottom edge to make certain the vertical line stays on the fold - this is OK.

See how the line on the ruler is not square to the fold of the fabric?  Even though the edge of the ruler is on the cut edge of the fabric cutting a strip using the cut edge and ignoring the vertical line on the fold would result in a strip having a V in the center of it.

Re-square the bottom edge as necessary and check to make sure the vertical line is on the fold with every cut.




Sew the two strips together.  Take great care when pressing.  It is easy to distort a long skinny strip.  I often finger press first and then ease the iron along the seam. (Note: If you find you are having trouble with this step, just sub cut the strips into the 12.5" lengths after sewing them together and then press them to the dark.)

Once you have the strips sewn just sub cut into 12.5" pieces.  Be sure to keep one line of the ruler you are using along the seam of the strip so they stay nice and straight as you cut.  I use my 12.5" x 12.5" square ruler for this task.
Make 48 sashing units and then relax!  The goal is in sight!!!  ☺

Ta Dah!  Block #16 is done.  

 

See you next month!   Quilty hugs....Linda T.

Stash Buster BOM ~ Block #15

Corner Triangles!  

Here is another compontent of the Stash Buster BOM ~ and the goal is in sight. 

February will be the last block post and then the fun can begin - putting it all together!  If you have stuck it out to this point I congratulate you!

Let's get started!






You will be making 4 "blocks" and need the following:

4 7/8" x 4 7/8" squares

Cut 6 squares of gold print (background fabric) in my quilt my background fabric is black.

Cut 2 squares of red print (scraps)

Cut all squares once on the diagonal.  You will end up with 12 gold triangles and 4 red triangles.

 







Pair a red triangle with a black triangle and sew a 1/4" seam.  Press to the dark.









Trim off the pesky ears.

Make 4 of these units.










Sew a black triangle to one side of the HST unit (red side) and press to the dark.  Sew the other black triangle to the opposite side and press to the dark.  This is the back side and you can see how I have pressed it.  Notice those "intersections" which will help keep those points intact when you put the quilt together.   








You need to make 4 and the long side of the triangle should measure 12.5" from point to point.

 TA DAH!!!  Another job well done! 

 

Quilty hugs....Linda Thielfoldt  ☺

Getting Ever Closer ~ Just a few more BOM posts

Side Triangles - Oh My!

We are nearing the end of the BOM and there is only one more "block" after this one left to make.  Since I know the holidays are busy for most people I thought I would give you something to work on over the next few weeks and then pick back up in January with the last block and other components that make the quilt.  We should wrap things up in February with the final components and borders.

Please do not assemble the quilt at this point.

Most quilters struggle with half square triangles (HST).  They involve what for many is a dirty word - bias!  Many companies have produced tools and supplies to help quilters with this but I think this is by far the easiest and most accurate method. The beauty of this is you can use it no matter what the size half square triangle you need to make.  The only down side is if you need scrappy HST this is not the method to use since they end up all the same.

So having said that, let's get started!

You will need the following:  

A - 15  squares cut  4  7/8" x  4  7/8" (background) 
and then cut once on the diagonal to yield 30 triangles




B - 4  squares cut 9  3/4" x 9  3/4" (scraps)

B - 4  squares cut 9  3/4" x 9  3/4"  (background)

Here are my B squares.   I am using red for my HST and the squares are all the same.  Since there are so many HST to make I am not making them scrappy.  I figure the blocks are scrappy enough and doing the side triangles the same will bring some continuity to the quilt.

Draw a line 4 of the squares - choose the one that is easiest to see the marking on. Do this on all 4 of that color.  In my case this is the background fabric.

Do the same thing in the opposite direction.

Your square should look like this - a big X.

Pair the square with the other fabric (scraps) making sure right sides are together.

Pin using 4 pins - just to make sure the fabrics do not slip around during the sewing.

Sew 1/4" seam on both sides of BOTH lines.  What you see here is my chalked line and then the stitching lines on either side of that.  

Now you need to take your ruler and cut through the center - place the ruler on the 4 7/8" line on the outer edge of the block. The cutting edge should run right through the middle of the X.  Make certain that your ruler is straight along the outer edge of the block - if not your HST units will not come out to the correct size. If you look on the right side of the block you will see that I also put the vertical line along the right hand edge of the block - sorta under the letter E on my ruler. As long as the bottom 4 7/8" line and that line don't move while cutting, my HST will be perfect.   Do not move the fabric after you make the cut.

You may be wondering how I came up with the cutting measurement.....If you refer back to the cutting instructions above you will see that the square we cut to do them individually measured  4  7/8" - so you just cut on that measurement.   



(NOTE:  If you want all your HST to be scrappy you make them using the measurement listed as A for both A & B but you have a bunch of them to make. LOL)


The cool thing about this method is it works for any size HST you need to make.  Just double the original square you would use to make them individually and then proceed.  4  7/8" x 2 = 9  3/4" square.   The only downside is they are all going to be the same - so if you want a scrappy look you need to make them individually. 

Do the same thing in the opposite direction.  Place the ruler on the 4 7/8" line on the outer edge of the block.  The edge you use to cut should be running right through the center of the big X.  Do not move the fabric.

Next take your ruler and cut on the marked line you drew in the beginning.  Again, do not move the fabric.

Move your ruler to the other line and cut on that marked line. 

This is what you should end up with after all the cutting is completed. Eight half square triangles all in one fell swoop!  I love this method.  Easy, accurate and you don't have to worry too much about the bias. 








Press them all to the dark. 

Your 4 squares will yield 32 HST units - you only need 30 for the side triangles.


Now wasn't that super easy?

You know I always lay out the components of any block I am making so here we go.  Be sure to orient the color to the correct position - it's super easy to get them turned around.

Sew the single triangles to the HST unit in each row. Press so the seams alternate within each row so when you go to sew them together they nest nicely.

Sew the remaining single triangle to the top of the middle HST unit.  Press. Then sew the two units together.  Keep an eye out for those point intersections.

TA DAH!  Triangle Block #14 is done....now go make 9 more.  ☺  Be sure to trim off the little ears.











I hope you found this method easy to do and that all your points come out perfect.  Don't forget to press in between each step!  See you in January!!

May you have a blessed holiday season and thanks for following along - I can't wait to see your Stash Buster BOM quilts!  

Quilty hugs,  

Linda

Stash Buster BOM Block #13 ~ Flower Basket

There is just something about Basket blocks....

Basket blocks can be kind of tricky in a quilt layout as most of them are on point so when I designed this quilt with an on-point layout I knew I had to include one.

Flower Basket

12" block - make one

*My version is more scrappy than this layout here but you can do whatever you like.  I used three different red fabrics for the "flowers" but you could make them all different if you wanted a really scrappy look.

 

 A - 3 7/8" x 3 7/8" Square

 Cut 1 square each of three* red fabrics (scraps)

Cut 4 squares of gold print (background)

Cut 1 square of tan print (scraps)

Cut all squares on the diagonal once.

B - 6 1/2" x 3 1/2" Rectangle

Cut 2 of gold print (background fabric)


C - 6 7/8" x 6 7/8" Square

Cut 1 of tan print (scraps) then cut on the diagonal once.  Note: you will only use one of the triangles.


 Cut 1 of gold print (background) then cut on the diagonal once.  Note: you will only use one of the triangles.

Next up layout all the pieces to make sure you like the fabric choices.  I used three different red prints for the "flowers" and played  around a bit to get the look I was happy with.  You could also make every flower a different fabric if you prefer.  That is the great thing about quilting, we all get to do what we like ☺!







I used a stripe for the basket and so I wanted to make sure I had the triangles going the right way so the stripe would match.   Yes I know, my type A is showing!

 I started with the rectangles and added the small triangles to them.  Note how the "ears" extend beyond the one side - this is what you want.   Press to the dark.

I lay them out again just to make sure things are on track and that I haven't turned something the wrong way.

Then I start on the half square triangles.  Sew them together one row at a time.  Since my layout was particular I needed to make sure I didn't get the red out of order.  Once you have all three rows together, press them so you are alternating the seam direction.  Some will be to the dark and some will be to the red.  

 Once I have the rows completed I sew them together.  Here I have the first and the second rows together.  








 


Once I have the two rows together I add the large triangle.  I found it easier to press to the large triangle


 

 

 Add the last row of half square triangles. 

Add a rectangle unit, press to the rectangle.

Add the last rectangle unit and press toward the rectangle.  All that is left now is to add the final large triangle.  Press to the triangle.

TA DAH!  Stash Buster BOM #13 block is done!  WTG!

Block should measure 12.5" which will give you a 12" finished size block.  Be sure to keep an eye on that scant 1/4" seam allowance, especially at the seam intersections.  Hope you like this block and congratulations - just a few more months for the big reveal!  

Quilty hugs....

Linda T.

 

Stash Buster BOM #12 ~ Maple Star

Fall is in the air....

With each month we get closer and closer to the completion of the Stash Buster BOM.  This block is a slight variation on the Maple Star - same look but this version has the star set on point which gives it a fun look.  Lots of opportunity for scraps in this block as well.

 

A - 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" Square
Cut 4 squares of gold print (background fabric)


B - 4 3/16" x 4 3/16" Square

This is an odd size but you can just eyeball it - it is just 1/16th shy of 4 1/4" - I know it is not marked on the ruler but I just used my ruler and eyeballed it - turned out just fine.  


C - 2 5/8" x 2 5/8" Square
Cut 4 of red print (scraps)



D - 2 5/8" x 4 3/4" Rectangle
Cut 4 of brown print (scraps)

E - 4 3/4" x 4 3/4" Square
Cut 1 of red (scraps)

 
A note about cutting:

These are two of my favorite rulers I use for cutting.  I like the accuracy and the fine lines on the one and I love the turquoise ink on the other one which is very helpful when cutting dark fabrics. I never use my mat for cutting unless it is a very large piece of fabric and I don't have a ruler big enough.  I find I am much more accurate if I only use the rulers for measurements and cutting.  Often I see students go back and forth using the mat and then the ruler to cut the same piece - not a good idea in my opinion due to the variances that are often in mats.

See how the square is cut exactly halfway between the 4 1/8" line and the 4 1/4" line - that is what you want. 

You only have to cut one of each color so it won't be a problem.  If I were doing a lot of these I would make a template and tape it to my ruler for accuracy.

Same thing only on the dark fabric with the other ruler.














 

Once you have the squares cut for B you need to cut them twice on the diagonal.  You will end up with 8 star points and 8 background triangles.




As usual, I layout all the pieces to check color placement.  Once I am happy with my choices I decide what needs to be sewn together first. 

In this block I start with the center 9 patch.  Notice I pressed my seams in the opposite direction so when I go to sew the units together they will nest nicely and my intersections will match.

Success! 










Next up the points of the star.  
 

This is one where you have to pay attention - notice how the dark fabric is on opposite sides of the tan on 4 of the units - this is important.  

 Now I layout the pieced geese units (star points) to make sure they are orientated the correct direction.  

Then I sew one unit to the corner squares.  See how the ears extend past the square?  

That is what you want if you intend to have that 1/4" seam left so you don't cut your points off when you sew these units to the center.











Once they are all complete, I lay the pieces out in place again to make sure I have things still going in  the correct direction.










This is what the four corner units should look like when you have them together. 








Pay particular attention to how you press them and be sure to keep an eye on that 1/4" intersection I keep talking about.  

Notice how I pressed the star points to the dark background.  This also makes it easy to see the intersection of the star points when I go to set the block in the quilt.  No cut off points for me!!!

Once I have the 4 star point units completed I layout everything one last time and check to make certain I have not missed anything.  

Now it is a simple task to sew the corners to the center unit.

Make sure when you are adding the corner units that the background fabric extends beyond the corners of the nine patch.  You want to see those ears hanging over the edges of the center unit. Notice how my pressed seams are opposite which allows for the 9 patch unit and the corner units to nest together.  

Sew opposite corners - see how those ears hang off - that is a good thing ☺ Press the corners toward the center and repeat the process with the last two corners.  

TA DAH!!!  Stash Buster BOM block #12 is complete!

I hope you have enjoyed this block...just a few more months!  

Love to hear your comments and if you have a question please post it - I will be happy to help in any way I can.  Can't wait to see your blocks!

Quilty hugs,
Linda T.