Stash Buster BOM Block #13 ~ Flower Basket

There is just something about Basket blocks....

Basket blocks can be kind of tricky in a quilt layout as most of them are on point so when I designed this quilt with an on-point layout I knew I had to include one.

Flower Basket

12" block - make one

*My version is more scrappy than this layout here but you can do whatever you like.  I used three different red fabrics for the "flowers" but you could make them all different if you wanted a really scrappy look.

 

 A - 3 7/8" x 3 7/8" Square

 Cut 1 square each of three* red fabrics (scraps)

Cut 4 squares of gold print (background)

Cut 1 square of tan print (scraps)

Cut all squares on the diagonal once.

B - 6 1/2" x 3 1/2" Rectangle

Cut 2 of gold print (background fabric)


C - 6 7/8" x 6 7/8" Square

Cut 1 of tan print (scraps) then cut on the diagonal once.  Note: you will only use one of the triangles.


 Cut 1 of gold print (background) then cut on the diagonal once.  Note: you will only use one of the triangles.

Next up layout all the pieces to make sure you like the fabric choices.  I used three different red prints for the "flowers" and played  around a bit to get the look I was happy with.  You could also make every flower a different fabric if you prefer.  That is the great thing about quilting, we all get to do what we like ☺!







I used a stripe for the basket and so I wanted to make sure I had the triangles going the right way so the stripe would match.   Yes I know, my type A is showing!

 I started with the rectangles and added the small triangles to them.  Note how the "ears" extend beyond the one side - this is what you want.   Press to the dark.

I lay them out again just to make sure things are on track and that I haven't turned something the wrong way.

Then I start on the half square triangles.  Sew them together one row at a time.  Since my layout was particular I needed to make sure I didn't get the red out of order.  Once you have all three rows together, press them so you are alternating the seam direction.  Some will be to the dark and some will be to the red.  

 Once I have the rows completed I sew them together.  Here I have the first and the second rows together.  








 


Once I have the two rows together I add the large triangle.  I found it easier to press to the large triangle


 

 

 Add the last row of half square triangles. 

Add a rectangle unit, press to the rectangle.

Add the last rectangle unit and press toward the rectangle.  All that is left now is to add the final large triangle.  Press to the triangle.

TA DAH!  Stash Buster BOM #13 block is done!  WTG!

Block should measure 12.5" which will give you a 12" finished size block.  Be sure to keep an eye on that scant 1/4" seam allowance, especially at the seam intersections.  Hope you like this block and congratulations - just a few more months for the big reveal!  

Quilty hugs....

Linda T.

 

Stash Buster BOM #12 ~ Maple Star

Fall is in the air....

With each month we get closer and closer to the completion of the Stash Buster BOM.  This block is a slight variation on the Maple Star - same look but this version has the star set on point which gives it a fun look.  Lots of opportunity for scraps in this block as well.

 

A - 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" Square
Cut 4 squares of gold print (background fabric)


B - 4 3/16" x 4 3/16" Square

This is an odd size but you can just eyeball it - it is just 1/16th shy of 4 1/4" - I know it is not marked on the ruler but I just used my ruler and eyeballed it - turned out just fine.  


C - 2 5/8" x 2 5/8" Square
Cut 4 of red print (scraps)



D - 2 5/8" x 4 3/4" Rectangle
Cut 4 of brown print (scraps)

E - 4 3/4" x 4 3/4" Square
Cut 1 of red (scraps)

 
A note about cutting:

These are two of my favorite rulers I use for cutting.  I like the accuracy and the fine lines on the one and I love the turquoise ink on the other one which is very helpful when cutting dark fabrics. I never use my mat for cutting unless it is a very large piece of fabric and I don't have a ruler big enough.  I find I am much more accurate if I only use the rulers for measurements and cutting.  Often I see students go back and forth using the mat and then the ruler to cut the same piece - not a good idea in my opinion due to the variances that are often in mats.

See how the square is cut exactly halfway between the 4 1/8" line and the 4 1/4" line - that is what you want. 

You only have to cut one of each color so it won't be a problem.  If I were doing a lot of these I would make a template and tape it to my ruler for accuracy.

Same thing only on the dark fabric with the other ruler.














 

Once you have the squares cut for B you need to cut them twice on the diagonal.  You will end up with 8 star points and 8 background triangles.




As usual, I layout all the pieces to check color placement.  Once I am happy with my choices I decide what needs to be sewn together first. 

In this block I start with the center 9 patch.  Notice I pressed my seams in the opposite direction so when I go to sew the units together they will nest nicely and my intersections will match.

Success! 










Next up the points of the star.  
 

This is one where you have to pay attention - notice how the dark fabric is on opposite sides of the tan on 4 of the units - this is important.  

 Now I layout the pieced geese units (star points) to make sure they are orientated the correct direction.  

Then I sew one unit to the corner squares.  See how the ears extend past the square?  

That is what you want if you intend to have that 1/4" seam left so you don't cut your points off when you sew these units to the center.











Once they are all complete, I lay the pieces out in place again to make sure I have things still going in  the correct direction.










This is what the four corner units should look like when you have them together. 








Pay particular attention to how you press them and be sure to keep an eye on that 1/4" intersection I keep talking about.  

Notice how I pressed the star points to the dark background.  This also makes it easy to see the intersection of the star points when I go to set the block in the quilt.  No cut off points for me!!!

Once I have the 4 star point units completed I layout everything one last time and check to make certain I have not missed anything.  

Now it is a simple task to sew the corners to the center unit.

Make sure when you are adding the corner units that the background fabric extends beyond the corners of the nine patch.  You want to see those ears hanging over the edges of the center unit. Notice how my pressed seams are opposite which allows for the 9 patch unit and the corner units to nest together.  

Sew opposite corners - see how those ears hang off - that is a good thing ☺ Press the corners toward the center and repeat the process with the last two corners.  

TA DAH!!!  Stash Buster BOM block #12 is complete!

I hope you have enjoyed this block...just a few more months!  

Love to hear your comments and if you have a question please post it - I will be happy to help in any way I can.  Can't wait to see your blocks!

Quilty hugs,
Linda T.

Stash Buster BOM Block #11 - Chain

Whew!  Breaking the "chain" from all the triangles with this block!

This one is super easy but you need to make 6 of them all alike.

 This quilt is made up of scrappy blocks and lots of fabrics (which is the idea and supposedly to help us bust our stashes!) and this block along with the 4 patch bonus block we made a few months ago is what ties it all together. 


You will notice that the center of this block and the 4-patch are the same.  When you have a lot of different blocks made of lots of different units a block like this can really help tie them all together.  Or if you will, "chain" them together ☺

Four patch block - you made 17 of them

.

Cutting: 

 

A   2" x 2" squares

Cut 8 of red print (scraps)

Cut 8 of tan print (scraps)

Cut 8 of black (background)

 

B   3 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangle

Cut 4 of black (background)

 

 

C 3 1/2" x 2" rectangle - cut 4 of black (background)

 

As you know by now, I like to layout all the pieces.  Spencer seems to think he has to help with this part.

I start with the 4 patch units.

 

 

 I just chain piece them making sure I have them placed so I can just fold one over on top of the other and have them going the right way.  I also sewed the small squares to the inner rectangles at this time.

Once again, back to the layout part.  Just making sure everything is going the right way.  The red fabric is directional so I want to be sure I don't get one of them turned the wrong way.

 I always pin when I have things I need/want to match up.

 Center unit is complete.

 Sew the corner 4 patch units to the larger rectangles.  Pay attention to how you press these units so you can easily nest them together when you join the sides to the center unit. I pressed toward the big rectangles and away from the pieced blocks.

 Super easy.  Now make 5 more for a total of 6!

Note:  You can make these blocks using strip piecing for the four patch units, just cut your strips 2" sew them together and then sub cut into 2" units and sew together as usual.

 

Ta Dah!  Once you have all 6 made you are done with this step.  

kind regards,  Linda T.

 

Stash Buster BOM Block #10 - Magic Box

Just because I know you love triangles!

I wonder if the magic part of this block is when your points all come out perfect? The block reminds me of a combination of a Square in a Square and a Churn Dash.  I like blocks that have lots of pieces and sections so I can really get scrappy with it and this block is perfect for that!

As you can see I used five different prints and the black background fabric. If you want an even scrappier look you could add more - maybe the triangles are all different prints of the same color?  Go ahead, have some fun with it.

 Cutting:

A   3 7/8" x 3 7/8" square 

Cut 2 squares of background fabric and then cut on the diagonal once

Cut 2 squares of tan print (scraps) and then cut on the diagonal once

Cut 2 squares of black/tan print (scraps) and then cut on the diagonal once

B   6 1/2" x 2" rectangle 

cut 2 of background 

cut 2 of scraps

 

C   4 1/4" x 4 1/4" square

cut 1 of scraps and then cut again on the  diagonal twice to make 4 triangles 

D  3 1/2" x 3 1/2" square - cut one (scraps)

 

When I make a new block I always lay out the pieces to make sure I am happy with my choices. I also check for any fabrics that are directional and get things lined up properly.  As you can see my triangles have a stripe to them and I want to be sure they all end up going the same way.

I like to start with the center.  Take your square D and pair it with a triangle C.  

Make sure that the little ears are extending beyond the square and that they are even.  If not, go back and check your cutting.  This is an important step. Sew. Add the opposite triangle and press toward the center of the block.

Do the same thing with the remaining two triangles.  Be sure to keep an eye on those little ears.  This time press to the triangle.  Pay attention to the intersection at the tip of my scissors - it should be visible.  If you press correctly you should be able to see all 4 of them.  This is really helpful when you go to add the next set of triangles.

Center unit is complete. Points look good, seam allowance is correct. At this time you can square things up if you need to.  The center unit should measure 4 3/4" x 4 3/4" - be sure when/if you trim not to cut off the seam allowance on one side more than the other.  Take care when trimming!

 Now add the next set of triangles A.  Again note those little ears - make sure they are even and stick out on either side of your center unit.  You should have a 1/4" of fabric showing on each ear.

 When you go to sew the triangles on, place them on the machine bed so you can see that intersection at the tip of my pencil. If you need to, pin in place.  Make sure your line of stitching does not cross over that intersection or you will cut your points off.

 Perfection- points are intact.

 Yay.  All 4 points look good. On to the next step.

Remember to keep an eye on that intersection.

 Sew the rectangles together using a print (scraps) and a background piece. Press to the darker fabric.

 

 At this point I like to lay out all the parts just to make sure I have things going the right way.  Now it is basically like sewing a nine patch together.  Sew two of the rectangle units to the center square in square unit and press toward the rectangle unit.

 Watch out for that intersection I am always talking about ☺  Always sew with that on top and visible.If you do your points will come out perfect! 

 Sew one half square triangle unit to one rectangle unit.

 Repeat with the opposite end.  Press toward the rectangle.

Once pressed you should be able to see the intersection.  Repeat for the other side.

 Add the side units to this center unit to complete the block. Be sure to watch out for the intersection of the center square unit. I always pin at this point.  Make sure the opposing seams are nested together nicely and put a pin on either side.  Sew the last two seams and you are done!

Yay - all of the points are intact!   Block should measure 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" but don't stress too much if it is off a tad. The sashing will help with that when we go to put them all together.

Congratulations!  Block #10 is complete!!  

 If you find these tutorials helpful please leave a comment ☺

Linda T.